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Scott & Williams circular knitting machine

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The knitting machine building industry

Improving on Lee

Since the time of William Lee, the knitting industry has been supported by the knitting machine building industry. Before the nineteenth century, knitting frames closely followed the design of Lee's frame. The mid-nineteenth century saw the development of circular knitting machines and automatic fully-fashioned machinery. Leading companies of the industry for the next century were founded around this time. Moses Mellor and G. Blackburn & Co. (initially known as Attenborough & Mellor & Co.) were founded in the 1840s and 1850s in Nottingham. The next wave of innovations occurred in Loughborough during the 1860s, where A. Paget & Co. Ltd, and William Cotton & Co. Ltd. developed fully-fashioned machines.

The British knitting industry traditionally favoured fully-fashioned garments and saw circular knitting machines and wide flat frames as producing an inferior product. The Paget and Cotton machines quickly became popular in British factories and many were exported. They offered reliable service and with maintenance, some of the early Cotton machines were still in use a century later. When the Cotton patent ran out in 1879, other companies copied the design and produced their own version. The machines were commonly referred to as 'Cotton's patents'.

Knitting in circles

Overseas competition and the demand for cheap goods in the British market forced firms to use circular knitting machines. To avoid wage cuts, companies had to use a technology that would increase output, cut costs, and produce a saleable garment. The introduction of new automated processes to circular machines in the last quarter of the nineteenth century further encouraged manufacturers to invest in them. In the USA and Europe, technicians worked to develop machines capable of automatically producing heels and toes on stockings and socks. Large diameter circular frames continued to be used to produce fabric for cut-and-sew knitwear and underwear.

Selling for the competition

During the early twentieth century, the British knitting machine industry was heavily influenced by developments in the USA. Blackburns became agents for the American company Scott & Williams in 1890. The company was subsequently appointed the sole licensee, outside of the USA, for the Scott & Williams Interlock machine. The fully-fashioned industry that the UK had pioneered and led became dominated by German designs. The German company, Schubert & Salzer, was the largest knitting machine manufacturer in the world by 1928. The Textile Machine Works of Reading in the US also developed their version of a fully-fashioned machine, popularly known as a 'Reading'. Between 1945 and 1949 over 2,000 Readings were imported into the UK.

British innovation

The outlook was not entirely bleak for machine builders as companies were still able to introduce their own new machines and capture a sector of the market. Spiers and Grieves launched their 'XL' machine in 1902. The 'XL', through its various models, was the main double cylinder knitting machine until the 1970s. The success of the 'XL' was closely followed by the Bentley 'Komet', a double cylinder circular machine.

The British industry was given some help in 1932 when high tariffs were introduced on imported knitting machinery. However, companies such as G. Stibbe & Co. Ltd, and Wildt & Co. Ltd, both of Leicester, who had imported and sold machinery, found that it was no longer profitable to do so. Fortunately these companies had gained an understanding of the technology by making adaptations for clients to imported machines. Stibbe manufactured such machines as the 'Maxim', 'Challenger', 'Model T', and the PB/DR 8 feed interlock machine. Wildt introduced its 'Model E' and 'Auto-Express RJ'.

Wartime timeout

At the outbreak of the Second World War in 1939, the knitting machine building industry employed a total of 2,766 workers. For the duration of the war, the production of knitting machinery stopped and factories were turned over to other uses. Industries vital to the war effort were moved from the areas under threat of air raids, such as the West Midlands, to the East Midlands. When peace returned, demand increased for knitting machines to replace those worn out during the war and British companies enjoyed full order books.

Exhibits from the collection
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XL knitting machine
A double cylinder sock machine. It is an early example of the XL sock machine and was able to produce a complete sock in one process.

Vest, woman's
A women's vest of plated cream wool and rayon. The rayon is on the inside to be more comfortable. Made in two pieces, the curved neck and armholes have ribbed bindings. The neck binding contains a tape of white rayon which can be pulled up for adjustment. The vest is printed in black with '"Druid" Regd, Size 3, 1942' and a broad arrow. The cardboard label is printed "Drewry & Edwards Ltd, Nottingham, Dept. C" and is typewritten in black and red with '27th Feb 1942, No. 1st contract A.T.S. 2, 30 gauge, -Knitted 28 c.p.i. Size 3 Vests, Cutting Wte: 4 x 3, waste 13 oz., Vernon Rd Finish; Peroxide, Scour, Unshrinkable, Contract Wte 3 x 14 1/2'.

Vest
Long sleeved wool and rayon peach coloured vest, possibly a pyjama top. The vest has a decorative lace trim around the yoke and cuffs, there are belt loops at the waist but the belt is missing. There is a fabric label at the waist which reads ' Smedley's Nightwear wool & rayon Trimming excepted MADE IN ENGLAND'

Hank winder
The winder was used for testing yarn supplies. A hank of yarn was randomly selected from a delivery and wound onto the winder. The bell rang when a set length of yarn had been wound. The weight per length was then calculated to check the yarn was of the right quality.

Gilbert 'Barrel' purl machine
A circular purl barrel machine with double ended bearded needles in horizontal double cyclinders. The machine was used for making gaiters for the armed forces.

Fully-fashioned machine
This machine was capable of producing a fine guage fully-fashioned garment. It resembles a single bay of a Cotton's patent machine. Bearded needles are fed by seven yarn feeders. A chain belt and shaping drum are used to control the shape and design of the garment.

Dubied V bed
This V bed used latch needles to produce a ribbed fabric for outerwear. The machine was hand operated by pulling on levers connected to the carriage. A row counter provided a guide for patterning.

Cotton
Ball of knitting cotton marked 'Strutt's / two ounces, 3 threads, shade 28, no.8'.

Circular machine
This circular machine was possibly used for making textured yarns, Knit de Knit. The machine uses latch needles.

Charnwood sock machine
This sock machine has a series of drums controlling the pattern of the sock design.

Blackburn & Sons circular machine
A Scott and Williams machine manufactured by Blackburn and Sons. This Type No.1 automatic machine was used for knitting stockings.

Berridge circular machine
A desk mounted circular knitting machine. The maker's plate notes it as being a 'Model 87'.

Berridge circular machine
A double cylinder sock machine

Beret machine
This machine used latch needles on a flat bed to produce berets. The shape of the beret was controlled by a shaping drum that runs along the length of the machine. The berets were placed on wooden boards to provide a final shape. The machine was manufactured in Troyes, a major centre for the French knitting industry.

Argyle Hose Machine
This single bed latch needle machine was used for making intarsia designs. The yarn was hand fed over the needles, making production slow, and designs were limited. The machine was often used for producing golfing socks.

War memorials
War memorials from Brettle's factory, Belper: World War1

Office chair
Office chair from Brettle's Belper factory

Waistcoat
Man's waistcoat, the front hand-frame knitted in pale blue and white silk, the back of blue woven silk, lined with ivory and blue striped silk (both very fragile).Four front pockets, six brass buttons, five monogrammed 'JF', and four smaller buttons on back.

Vest, man's
A man's vest in a peach cotton and white silk (or rayon) mixture. It is made in one main piece with no shoulder seams. The flap made by the semicircular cut for the neck is stitched down as a facing. The front opening is faced with cotton sateen and fastens with three pearl buttons and buttonholes. The short sleeves have ribbed cuffs. Marked 'M' for I & R Morley Ltd. There is also a card label 'N Dept. I & R Morley, Manufacturers, London, Nottingham, Heanor, Leicester etc.' flying wheel trade mark 'Prince Celfect Underwear, Cream, Sky and Deep Novi Shirts 1/2 S, Trousers, Knker Drws' with sizes and prices.

Vest, man's
A man's vest in unbleached wool. The high round neck has a ribbing binding and the short sleeves and the bottom is finished with ribbing. The label shows a druid's head in profile and is printed with 'Druid Regd 1943, Warnorm, G.I. Size2, 4' and the broad arrow signifying that it was made under Government order for the armed services.

Vest, baby's
An underjacket in cream wool stockinet, it has short sleeves and fastens with two pairs of cotton tapes. Inside there are labels with the Utility mark and '752SFJ' and 'Steppo Regd. All Wool Made in England'. The vest was originally worn by the donor, born in 1946, and subsequently worn by her doll.

Vest
Long knitted vest made of wool with ribbed central section, shaped at the hips. The vest has ribbon shoulder straps and a fabric label attached at the waist. The label reads ' WMS SMEDLEY J9 PURE WOOL splicing and trimming excepted made in Gt Britain'. The left hand side of the label has 'JAY' and a blue diving bird below.

Swimwear
Pair of men's black wool swim trunks - called beach shorts by maker - with two front pockets and white webbing belt. Factory sample.

Suit, woman's
A jacket and skirt in wool with a Jacquard pattern of broken zigzags in three shades of brown. The jacket has a V neck and long sleeves. The front and neck edges and the ribbed turn-back cuffs are in plain brown wool. On each front is a single pocket. The jacket fastens with four plastic buttons and buttonholes. The long skirt has four panels of unequal width and an elasticated waist.

Suit, woman's
A woman's suit consisting of a jumper top and skirt in a mixture of wool and rayon. The jumper has long sleeves and two patch pockets with plain green wool tops. Around the V neck is a simulated scarf of green wool, the ends passing through a pearl slide, and there is another strip and slide at the low waist. The mixture skirt is sewn to a white cotton yoke with elastic tape at the waist.

Suit, boy's
A boy's suit consisting of a shirt and a pair of shorts which button to it. The shirt in turquoise wool stockinet has a turndown collar and long sleeves and fastens with buttons at the front. The shorts are in dark brown wool stockinet and button on with six buttons and buttonholes. The shirt has a label with the Utility mark and '1801 LJ' and a strip of cotton with samples of wool stockinet showing different colourways. Unworn.

Stockings, pair of woman's
A pair of fully fashioned navy blue nylon stockings with reinforced toe, sole, heel and welt. These were sent from America during the Second World War and are unusual in being in blue rather than tan. Fortunately the shade of blue was not what the wearer wanted and so they have survived.

Stockings, pair of woman's
Fully fashioned stockings with French feet in tan silk. The deep welts have a shadow welt below and a crown-like 'M' for I & R Morley. The heel and the sandal foot are reinforced. The stockings are also stamped 'Patent No.396346, Licence No.35' and have a paper label printed in orange and black with 'Morley', the flying wheel trade mark and 'New Embassy, Fully Fashioned, Extra Fine Gauge Super Twist Thread Silk, Specially Designed M-Crown Welt, Regd No.801564, Morley Silk Stockings'. There are care instructions on the reverse.

Stockings, pair of woman's
Fully fashioned stockings with deep welts and reinforced heels and soles and French feet. On the instep is an oval insertion of machine made Leavers lace. Maker's mark 'G…' below welt. On one toe is stamped in gold 'Made in France'.

Stockings
Pair of white silk stockings with arrowhead decoration made by Meakin at Morleys.

Stocking
A woman's fine pink silk stocking made on a 52 gauge stocking frame. The heel, toe and English foot are of thicker silk. Marked below welt with 'M' for I & R Morley. It has a handwritten label 'Fine Silk Hose by I & R Morley'. The stains are from tar used to seal the bottle which contained it and a quantity of lace when they were buried under the foundation stone of the Wesleyan Chapel, Mansfield Road, Nottingham. They were recovered when the building was demolished in 1977.

Socks, man's
Pair of men's ribbed socks, red nylon with wavy black and white pattern. Stamped 'The Byford S-T-R-E-T-C-H Sock'.

Socks, man's
A pair of digital socks in black wool. They were probably knitted on a glove machine. They have ribbed cuffs. One sock has a card attached with matching wool (for darning) and is stamped in gold 'The Jaeger Co., Ltd, London, Pure Wool, Foreign'. Dr Jaeger advocated wool as the only healthy fibre to wear. His ideas were adopted as by the movement towards healthier clothing in the 1880s. George Bernard Shaw was the most famous advocate of these ideas.

Socks, man's
Bright colours have never been very popular for men's socks at any time. These are a startling scarlet and were made under the Utility scheme, probably after the war. They have narrow ribbed tops with wider ribbed legs and feet. The heels, toes and soles for the English feet are plain. They are printed in white with the Utility mark and 'L50 MFN' and are marked with M for the manufacturer in the sole.

Socks, man's
Man's black wool and linen circular knitted socks in their original box. The socks have deep cuffs edged with two lines of blue rayon and are mostly in 3:1 rib. They are stamped in green on the soles 'Meridian, Linsply Regd, Pure Linen Splicing, Two-Fold Botany Wool, Made in England' and in white on the toe 'Wartime Weight'. The socks also have labels printed in orange, brown and red with 'Meridian, Linsply Socks, Two-fold Botany Wool, Pure Linen Splicing, Made in England, No.88, 9" to 11 1/2", 20/6 1/2 doz.boxes, 12" 1/5 per dozen exta, Prices subject to variation owing to war conditions, J.B.Lewis & Sons Ltd, Nottingham'. The box is covered in brown paper with a label printed in brown, orange and grey.

Socks, man's
Man's circular knitted socks in blue and black marled wool in their original box. They have deep ribbed cuffs and are stamped in green and white on the sole 'Two-fold Botany Wool, Meridian Viking Regd, Made in England' and in white on the toes 'Wartime Weight'. The socks also have paper labels printed in orange, brown and red 'Meridian Viking No.3636, 9" to 11 1/2" 18/3, 12" 1/- per dozen extra, Prices subject to variation owing to war conditions, in half dozen boxes.' The box is covered in brown paper and printed in orange.

Socks, man's
These black silk socks hand embroidered (chevened) in white silk were worn by Leslie B Elliott for his wedding in 1914. His brother was the managing director of Elliott's of Swanwick and they have the mark 'E' of that firm below the ribbed cuff.

Sock, woman's
A sample tennis sock in white rayon plated onto cotton for strength. The heel and toe are in plain cotton. The turndown ribbed cuff has green near the edge and two bands of patterning. On the sole is printed 'Morley, Made in England, Artificial Silk & Cotton' and Morley's trade mark of a wheel with wings. The printed card lists the places where Morley had factories. A separate card has samples with different colourways of cuff on it.

Sock, man's
A man's sock knitted principally in black but with red behind which would show once the sock was stretched on the leg. The fronts are hand embroidered (chevened) with parallel rows of white spots. The back seam is handstitched. Marked 'A' for Allen, Solly & Co Ltd. There is also an oval label printed with the firm's London address (14 Moor Lane, Fore Street, London) and a description '1/1 black silk shot & emb.4441'

Sock, child's
Pair of children's socks with digit toes. White silk with lace knit front panel.

Sock

Silk stocking
Fully-fashioned silk stocking

Shirt, man's
Knitted on the stocking frame in silk and mercerised cotton. Separately made and sewn on long sleeves and collar. The purple area on the front has faint traces as if drawn out to be embroidered with the badge of the Salvation Army. Although bought as part of the Allen, Solly & Co collection is was probably made by I & R Morley. A similar, though not identical shirt, in a private collection has a red front embroidered with 'I & R M 1885' in yellow. Both shirts are tours de force of intarsia knitting and were probably unique.

Shade card
British Colour Council shade card giving 8 colours for 'knitwear, sportswear, machine and hand-knitting yarns' for spring/summer 1941.

Shade card
British Colour Council shade card giving official colours for the military and other Services including the Land Army and WVS.

Shade card
British Colour Council shade card for hosiery and leather colours for spring/summer 1938, issued December 1937. Gives samples of fashion colours for clothing with recommended shades for shoes, stockings etc.

Shade card
British Colour Council shade card for spring/summer 1934, giving 10 shades for hosiery.

Sampler
Black silk rectangle with lozenge patterns in lace stitch, received with the information "Made on German lace machine 1908" from Allen, Solly & Co Ltd.

Pullover, military
Military issue V-neck, long sleeved khaki pullover. Body and sleeves knitted in the round, shoulder seams taped. Woven label with Pick brand trademark, size 2. Official sample with wax seal and notes of specification issued by the Clothing Inspection Division dated 24-11-1938.

Pullover, man's
A man's fashioned pullover in scarlet wool knitted on a 33 gauge machine. The V neck is edged with ribbing and there is ribbing at the bottom and at the edges of the long sleeves. The woven label reads '100% Pure Merino Wool, 33 Gauge, Super 70's, Allen, Solly & Co Ltd, London & Nottingham, established 1744'.

Pullover, boy's
Brown cashmere pullover, long sleeved with checked collar and striped tie in brown, orange and white. Style 025, one of many similar designs with slight variations in collar and tie. Factory sample with 10 colour swatches attached (this is dark oak).

Publicity item
Publicity for Minster a firm subsumed by Brettles.

Packaging
Paper-covered cardboard box, black streaked in metallic gold, overprinted with silver and red rectangles. Pull-out drawer with brass handle. Contained silk rayon stockings priced 1/6d. 'BRETTLES Silkestria Made in England'.

Mitten
Pair of elbow length mittens, grey rayon knitted in an openwork pattern. Label ALL RAYON MADE IN ENGLAND.

Mitten
Red wool mitten embroidered in red silk, with three imitation buttons. Factory sample, card label no. 1591.

Knickers
Pair of women's blue wool knickers. Woven label 'RAMESES ALL WOOL'.

Jumper, woman's
A woman's short sleeved jumper in fawn cashmere lacy knit decorated with green spun silk zigzags. It has cuffs, waist and turndown collar in fawn ribbing and is labelled 'Made in England by Allen, Solly & Co Ltd', 'Pure Chinese Cashmere' and '36' (size). According to the technical information which came with it, it was made on a 33 gauge German machine which had 3000 strings of catgut.

Jumper, woman's
A woman's jumper in spun red and white silk. The back is plain, the front has rather an heraldic arrangement of bands and stars. The neck, short sleeve and waist have bands of red ribbing. According to the information that came with it, this jumper was made on a 34 gauge machine and "was supplied to a Paris couturier in 1924". Chanel was one of the first Parisian couturiers to use silk jersey, inspired, apparently by the silk underwear worn by her lover, the Duke of Westminster. This jumper might have been supplied to her in 1924.

Hose
Fine lisle hose

Gloves, pair of woman's
This pair of bright yellow cotton Utility gloves has fingers and thumb in moss stitch and fancy cable stitch on the backs and palms. Three bands of navy blue and brown added decoration. The cuffs are ribbed. The label, in the left hand glove only, has the Utility mark and 'H 704 A/L'.

Glove stand
Glove stand originating from Morley's factory, Heanor

Ephemera
From a series of postcards made from photographs of Elliotts workers making stockings for Princess Mary

Ephemera
Account of the making of hosiery for the trousseau of Princess Mary, 1922.

Embroidered stocking
Example of chevening

Duster, advertisement
Yellow cotton duster printed with advertisement for Tenbra underwear.

Dress child's
Child's salmon pink fancy knit dress with straight skirt, ribbed turn-back cuffs, drawstring waist, slash neckline, single button opening on each shoulder. Utility label.

Drawers, woman's
Wartime woman's drawers in wool and rayon stockinet. Each leg is in one piece with a knitted cuff. The waist is elasticated and there is a square crotch gusset. The drawers are marked in black ink with '"Druid" Regd. Size 2 1942' and the broad arrow. They also have a manilla tie-on label printed with 'Drewry & Edwards Ltd, Carriage Paid, Nottingham' and type written with 'Contract 292/CK/N20/9 Pantees A.T.S. Patt.11826 Duplicate of sample confirmed 15.1.42'. These were for women's wear in the army. A.T.S. stands for Auxiliary Territorial Service .

Drawers, man's
A man's trunks in unbleached wool with a waistband of khaki cotton sateen which fastens with two plastic buttons. Each leg is made in one piece and they are seamed at the centre back. There are applied straps for the ends of braces to go through before they button to the trousers. The trunks are stamped with 'Druid Regd, 1943, Warnorm, G.I. size 3 4' and the broad arrow signifying that they were made under Government order for the armed services.

Drawers
Pair of drawers made from a navy and white knitted fabric with lace inserts at the bottom of the legs. The drawers were once elasticated.

Cravat, woman's
Women's cravat knitted in brown marl silk, seamed along centre back and at ends. Woven label 'Hand-frame knitted all real silk Made in England'

XL knitting machine
The XL was the first fully automatic sock machine. It was capable of producing the welt, the heel and the toe in one process. The toe was finished separately on a linking machine. The machine has a double cylinder and a chain control device.

Stockings
Pair of seamless stockings in yellow, white and grey mercerised cotton lisle, knitted in vertical openwork stripes.

Stockings
Pair of women's fully fashioned stockings knitted in cream cotton, with openwork panel.

Stocking, woman's
Although William Elliot invented a fast black dye for silk in the 18th century, fast black dyes for wool and silk were not achieved until the end of the 19th century. This black wool stocking which is made on a circular machine is stamped in gold 'Hawley's Hygienic Dye, Warranted Stainless & Acid Proof, Alfred Hawley, Dyer'. The clock is hand-embroidered in brown and white cotton chevening.

Stocking, sampler
Cream silk stocking, embroidered with a variety of motifs sewn in silk thread, the toe and heel are missing. Possibly a practice piece for an outworker employed sewing the chevening patterns on to stockings.

Stocking, man's, livery
Man's pale pink silk livery hose.

Stocking, knee length
Pair of fully fashioned knee length stockings with knitted-in garter top, natural tan colour silk.

Stocking
Ladies' black cashmere fully fashioned stocking with heel, welt and digit toes in grey marl. Trademark 'E' worked on welt, with two illegible initials.

Stocking
Purple cashmere fully fashioned stocking with embroidered clocks.

Stockings
Pair of light greenish tan silk stockings, fully fashioned with embroidered clocks. The soles are in a purple and white cashmere, knitted continuously with the silk but cut and seamed to shape. 'E' worked below welt; woven label 'Guaranteed Handmade English Manufacture'.

Stockings
Pair of fine cream silk stockings, fully fashioned with fine knitted lace pattern and embroidered front panel. 'E' worked below welt and number 5 or 6 on welt.

Stocking
Black cashmere ribbed stocking shot with yellow silk. 'E' worked on sole.

Stockings
Pair of black silk fully fashioned stockings with unusually deep welt (9 cm). Sole, heel and 9.5 cm below welt are knitted in a heavier gauge than the rest. Painted clocks in gold, green and orange.

Stockings
Pair of very fine black silk stockings worked in the welt with MARY below a crown. Made for the wedding trousseau of Princess Mary in 1922.

Stockings
Pair of ''Ballito' brand stockings with their original retail packaging.

Stockings
Pair 'superior wear' stockings in their original retail packaging by 'Supawara'.

Stockings
Pair of fully fashioned seamless stockings in their original Brettles packaging.

Stockings
Pair of superfine brown rayon stockings, utility marked (CC41), 'Blue Bird' brand, with original packaging and label.

Stockings
Pair of brown rayon stockings, 'Sylcoto' brand, with original packaging and label.

Stockings
Pair of brown rayon stockings, 'pure high twist', the stockings are marked 'G38' 'CC41'. The stockings have been joined together with a decorative card label.

Stockings
Pair fawn fully fashioned stockings which have been heavily darned.

Stocking
One of two pairs of white stockings, unworn, the stockings have a cardboard label stapled to the welt with a hand written price (1/-). The stockings have 'Llama finish' printed on in gold.

Stockings
Pair of thick woollen stockings with the heel and toe seamed and a white stripe knitted into the welt, 'SYLDENE' brand by Brettles. The stockings are unworn and have their price tag attached at the top.

Stockings
Pair of grey silk stockings with lace fronts. The initials 'LMH' have been embroidered into the the top of the stockings near the welt.

Stockings
Two white cotton stockings made for the right foot but put together as a pair. Both stockings have blue woollen leaves embroidered on them. Each stocking is marked with a number inside the welt (one is '7' the other '5'. These stockings came from the School for the Deaf in Derby

Stockings
Pair of black fully-fashioned stockings with lace inserts at the front. The stockings were made for Laura Marianne Morley and have 'LMM' embroidered on to the stockings.

Publicity item
Publicity for Minster a firm subsumed by Brettles.

Publicity item
Publicity for Fox Trot hose a firm subsumed by Brettles

Publicity item
Publicity for Minster a firm subsumed by Brettles.

Pattern
Pattern drawn on an off-cut of thick paper which has been re-used, 'THE 'WE…' is printed on the reverse side in red. '8632 spun' has been written in black ink. There is a hand drawn pattern of dots and dashes, the top portion of which is an arrowhead.

Pattern
Pattern drawn in ink on an off-cut of thick paper. '8652 silk' has been written in black ink. There is a hand drawn design of dots below. The paper has been torn along one edge.

Pattern
Pattern drawn in ink on an off-cut of thick paper. '9224 stew'[?] and '9220 top' have been written at the top of the paper. There is a hand drawn design of dots and dashes below.

Pattern
Possible pattern for embroidering on to a stocking, drawn in pencil on a scrap of card - the card is torn at one end. 'LLAMA' is written in a series of dashes on the card.

Pattern
Pattern drawn in ink on an off-cut of paper. 'Patt 8489. in Silk Anklet' is written on the paper. There is a hand drawn diamond pattern below.

Pattern
Hand drawn pattern in ink on an off-cut of paper. 'Pattern 8521 in Silk. Anklet' is written in black ink with a hand drawn diamond pattern below. The reverse side has pencil written notes, possibly instructions for which colours to use.

Pattern
Series of patterns drawn on the reverse side of a letter to a lady named Mrs Hallam, dated 1912. There are several pencil drawn designs on the paper, each made up of a series of dots and dashes, some are numbered and have stitching instructions on them.

Pattern
Pattern drawn on an off-cut of paper possibly torn from a note book or ledger. There are a number of designs drawn in pencil on the paper, each made up of a series of dots and dashes. The designs have been numbered and have colour scheme instructions too.

Pattern
Pattern drawn in ink on an off-cut of paper possibly torn from a notebook or ledger. '9240 silk' has been written in black ink to the left of the design. The hand drawn design is made up of a series of dots and dashes, drawn in black and red ink.

Pattern
Pattern drawn in ink on an off-cut of paper possibly torn from a notebook or ledger. '9272' has been written in red ink. The hand drawn design is made up of a series of dots and dashes.

Pattern
Pattern drawn on an off-cut of paper possibly torn from a notebook or ledger. There are a number of designs drawn on this piece of paper. Each design is slightly different and has been given a number, some have colour instructions too.

Pattern
Pattern drawn in ink on an off-cut of paper possibly torn from a notebook or ledger. '9280' has been written to the left of the design. The hand drawn design is made up of a series of dots.

Pattern
Pattern drawn on an off-cut of paper, possibly torn from a notebook or ledger. There are several designs drawn in pencil on the paper, each made up of a series of dashes. Each design has colour scheme information and piece price written next to it.

Pattern
Pattern drawn on an off-cut of paper possibly torn from a notebook or ledger. '9221' has been written on the left side of the design, 'spun' has been written on the right. In between is a hand drawn pattern of dots.

Pattern
Pattern drawn on an off-cut of paper possibly torn from a note book or ledger. 'Patt 9218' has been written in black ink. There is a hand drawn design made up of a series of dots.

Pattern
Pattern drawn on an off-cut of paper possibly torn from a note book or ledger. 'Patt 9249' and 'This is a 2/4 pPatt. We would want it doing for 2/- a little less in patt.'have been written in black ink. There is a hand drawn design made up of dashes to the side.

Wildt circular machine
A circular machine fitted with latch needles. It has a fairly basic shaping chain device and was capable of producing socks.

Wildman circular machine
This American machine was imported into Britain and sold by G Stibbe of Leicester. The machine is fitted with a teasel feed and rollers. A series of complex shaping chains and drums were used to control the design of the garment.

The King
Circular knitting machine hung from a stand or the ceiling.

Terrot knitting machine
This circular machine was suspended from a stand or attached to the ceiling. Bearded needles were used to create a large circular tube of fabric suitable for cut-up work. Wildt & Co. acted as agents for the Terrot in Britain.

Stoll flat bed machine
The machine consists of two opposing flat beds. The front bed can be used to knit fancy stitches. The operator pulled the handle backwards and forwards to knit the fabric. The machine was used to make babywear.

Stocking formers
Plywood stocking formers, of varying sizes and shapes

Stibbe circular machine
A circular latch needle machine.

Standard 'H'
This machine has a rotating cylinder and uses latch needles to make plain seamless hosiery.

Spiers 'Regent' machine
This 'Regent' was fitted with a jacquard device for controlling garment design. The cylinder is fitted with latch needles.

Spiers circular machine
This machine was used to knit half-hose and includes a conical rib cylinder. It was manufactured at the XL Engineering Works in Leicester.

Spensa Purl machine
A one-off small circular sock machine built by Wildt. It has been modified to produce cable stitch. The small diameter of the drum indicates that it could have been used to produce children's socks.

Scales
Hosiery sample balance, used in stock room at Moore Eady Ltd, Marleaton St, Derby. One-piece, graduated in pounds and ounces, circular glass front marked 'Hughes / Equivalent Balance / No 43 / British Made'.

Moses Mellor circular machine
A circular sock machine for producing rib children's socks. The tube of fabric produced would have been separated and linked at the toe. The machine has a geared shaping device.

Moore double head circular
This double headed (two cylinders) machine was used by Pick's for the manufacture of woollen pullovers. The control devices were manually operated to shape and pattern the garment. The machine was capable of producing plain or fancy rib fabric with the spare control discs. Semi-automatic versions were produced later.

Mellor Bromley circular machine
A circular sleeve machine capable of producing a rib fabric. The machine has shaping chain devices and four yarn feeds.

Komet circular machine
An early Komet machine with a double cylinder. The machine was fully automatic and used for the manufacture of socks. The shaping was controlled by a series of drums.

Knitting machine
Circular knitting machine. Outer casing painted black, with inlaid gold relief, rotary handle on side and a series of needles arranged around top edge.

Knitting machine
Flat bed knitting machine, type HNR, machine number 34340.

Karl Mayer Warp knitting machine
Warp knitting machines had a yarn feed for each needle and knitted by racking (side to side between needles) the yarn feed. The yarn threads were wound onto to a beam held at the back of the machine. The machine used bearded needles.

Harrison HNR Machine
This V bed machine was supplied with a range of accessories, including bobbins, wires, swifts, set-up combs, tools, threading wires, pear weights, and a plating guide. The average operator could produce around 12,000 stitches per minute. The cam system enabled the machine to produce circular knitting, half cardigan, rib knitting, and tucking in addition to basic knitting.

Stockings, pair of woman's
Semi transparent stockings in cream silk with hand embroidery (chevening) between openwork stripes at the front of the leg and foot. The mark 'E' for Elliott's of Swanwick is knitted in below the welt. Made as wedding stockings for Laura who married Leslie B Elliott in 1914.

Stockings
Pair of grey rayon stockings with a fully fashioned heel. The stockings are unworn and have the original card label on the top, the makers stamp is on the foot.

Publicity item
Publicity for Minster a firm subsumed by Brettles.

Packaging
Paper-covered cardboard box, fawn printed in black and silver. Originally contained 3 pairs of fully fashioned silk hose with lace clocks (1 pair in collection). Shop bill pencilled on base 'hose 13/6 gloves 1/1/0 1/14/6 paid'.

Corset
One complete corset and 6 sets of corset panels with 'fashioning' marks. Pink Cotton with steel zip and buckles.

Combinations, woman's
A pair of woman's white cotton interlock combinations called by the manufacturer 'step-ins'. The front and the knickers back up to the waist are cut out of one piece with holes for legs. The back of the top tucks into the back of the knickers. Back and leg edges are trimmed with elasticated lace. The ribbon binding of the neck extends to form shoulder straps. It has a woven label 'Vedonis Regd. interlock, Made in England'

Combinations, man's
These combinations for a man have crossover sloped fronts, creating a V neck, and short sleeves. There is a flap at the left centre back and an opening at centre front. The legs which stop at mid thigh have ribbed cuffs. The woven and printed labels feature Robin Hood in a triangle of 'Unshrinkable, British Make, Robin Hood Regd.'

Combinations
Pair of ladies' knitted silk combinations in pale peach. Cut straight across the bodice with space for elastic insertion; ribbon shoulder straps; open seam at crotch to back waist; ribbed cuffs. 'E' knitted on hip.

Coat and bonnet, child's
Pale blue knitted coat styled to give illusion of fullness. A narrow band of ribbing down the centre back is held by a button at waist level above a small inverted pleat. Two pleats at front released at waist level, emphasised by decorative pattern in inverted V. Picot edged collar, ribbed turnback cuffs. Three buttons plus press-stud. Matching bonnet made from six shaped pieces, with chin strap and button. Both with woven label 'Mecca WH'. Bonnet also has a Utility label and there is the edge of another which has been removed from the coat. 3 swatches attached.

Vest
Ladies' short vest made from pale pink silk. The vest has short sleeves has bust shaping and is shaped to fit waist and hips. The letter 'E' is worked into the garment on the front right hip. These combinations are on loan to the museum.

Vest
Ladies' cream wool long vest with short sleeves and bust shaping. The letter 'E' is worked into the garment on the front right hip. There is a washable blue ink stamp outside the vest of a swan within an oval shape. These combinations are on loan to the museum.

Cardigan-jacket, woman's
A women's cardigan-jacket in orange, grey, pink and white silk (or rayon) machine knitted using a double knit construction and the Jacquard apparatus. The long sleeves have grey ribbed cuffs and there is a band of knitting around the neck and front edges. The jacket fastens with five grey pearl buttons and buttonholes and has two pockets.

Cardigan, military
Brown wool military issue cardigan. Rib knitted with long sleeves, collarless, 7 buttons. All edges except cuffs are bound with tape. Woven label with J PICK & SONS SIZE 3 1925. Card label from the Superintendant, India Store Depot, Lambeth dated 14-10-25 giving specifications.

Cardigan, military
Brown wool military issue cardigan. Rib knitted with long sleeves, collarless, 7 buttons. All edges except cuffs are bound with tape. Woven label with J PICK & SONS SIZE 2 1915. Much worn and mended, history and testimonial letter from owner used in advertisement.

Cardigan, man's
Brown V-neck, long sleeved cardigan with 2 pockets and 5 buttons, knitted in fancy diamond check pattern. Label with Pick brand trademark. Factory sample for style 361, with prices and 4 colour swatches.

Box
Box for Miss Brettle's brand socks

Box
Box for Ward's hosiery, Belper

Bathing costume, woman's
A bathing costume in orange cotton interlock piped at the neck and armhole edges in black. The black and yellow Art Deco decoration is applied. The costume is made in two pieces with a lozenge shaped gusset at the crotch. It fastens with a button on the left shoulder and is labelled 'Meridian interlock, the perfect fabric for sensitive skins'.

Bathing costume, woman's
A bathing costume in brown wool with bands of colour. The costume is knitted with a front and back, U shaped neck and fastens with three plastic buttons and buttonholes on both shoulders. The armholes have ovals of plain brown knit sewn in at the bottom. Bands of green, orange and blue decorate the bottom of the skirt which partially covers the sewn in drawers which themselves fasten on the outside of the leg with two plastic buttons. The costume has the printed label 'The Ocean Bathing Suit Co, New York' and comes from the former premises of Meridian. It is likely that this, and others now in the museum's collection, were obtained for research purposes.

Bathing costume, woman's
A bathing costume in two colours and patterns of double-knit. The halter-neck top is cut with a V neck in white with a pattern of raised zigzags. The neck strap and the straps at the waist which tie at the back are in salmon pink. The lower section, also in salmon pink, has a raised abstract pattern and is cut to form a point at the front waist. The straight back waist is elasticated. The costume is unlabelled but comes from the sample stock of J B Lewis & Sons Ltd, Nottingham.

Bathing costume, woman's
A bathing costume in navy blue cotton interlock printed with 'shell bursts' in gold and silver. The top is shaped for and over the bust. The back is deeply cut into a U. A thick cord goes from the points above the bust, in casings down the back to tie at centre back. Drawers of a front and back and a kite shaped gusset are sewn into the waist and are completely covered by the flared skirt. With a woven label 'Meridian Double Lock Regd, The perfect fabric for sensitive skins'.

Bathing costume, woman's
A bathing costume in scarlet wool machine embroidered in white cotton with a diaper of hexagons. The suit is made with a back and V necked front in embroidered wool and fastens with press studs on the left shoulder. The skirt partially covers drawers of plain stockinet which are sewn in at low waist level. Inside is the label 'The Ocean Bathing Suit Co, New York' and comes from the former premises of Meridian Ltd. It is likely that this, and others now in the museum's collection, were obtained for research purposes.

Bathing costume, woman's
A bathing costume in pink and black cotton interlock. The high-waisted top and short sleeves are in pink with applied decoration in black. The skirt and the sewn in drawers showing beneath are in black, edged with pink and with applied pink decoration. The costume fastens with four buttons on the left shoulder and is labelled 'Meridian Regd Interlock, British Made'

Bathing costume, woman's
A woman's bathing costume in purple wool with a Jacquard pattern of daisies and bell flowers in black and white. One main front piece and one main back piece forming a short tight skirt. The plain purple knicker section is seamed into the waist. The bust pieces are cut separately and seamed in. The shoulder straps extend to pass through loops at the low U shaped back to tie at the centre back. There is a woven label 'Simpson Piccadilly'.

Bathing costume, man's
A man's bathing costume imitating a singlet and trunks. The top is knitted in royal blue and white with a diagonal row of overlapping squares in white and navy blue on the chest, at the waist is a simulated belt in royal blue and white with a white rectangle as a buckle. The trunks are navy blue and have a lozenge shaped gusset. The woven label has the Tudor Head trade mark and 'Wolsey, Made in England, men's, 38'.

Balaclava helmet
Military pattern balaclava helmet knitted in Air Force blue wool, single curved opening with double thickness peak to form eye slit. Factory sample, label with crown AM (for Air Ministry) J Pick and Sons Ltd 1939.

Advertisement, trade literature
Leaflet for Pick brand swimwear.

Advertisement, trade literature
Leaflet for Pick brand children's jerseys.

Advertisement
Advertisement for Pick brand knitwear featuring military issue cardigan made 1915 with testimonial letter (see L-C-1-1991-62).

Advertisement
Full colour advertisement for Pick brand boys jersey in 6 styles.

Timeline